Archive for the ‘ Others ’ Category

Anna Wintour heading to magazine hall of fame

FILE – In this Friday, Feb. 12, 2010 picture shows Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour before the start of the Rag & Bone fall 2010 collection during Fashion Week in New York. Already considered one of the most powerful people in fashion, Wintour is now headed to the Magazine Editors’ Hall of Fame. The American Society of Magazine Editors announced Monday, Feb. 22, 2010 that she would be honored at its annual gala in April.(AP Photo)

Already considered one of the most powerful people in fashion, Vogue’s Anna Wintour is headed to the Magazine Editors’ Hall of Fame.

The American Society of Magazine Editors announced Monday that Wintour would be honored at its annual gala in April.

“Throughout her career, Anna Wintour has exemplified the highest standards of taste, in both journalism and fashion,” said Sid Holt, ASME’s chief executive, in a statement. “She has defined style for a generation of magazine readers and come to epitomize the essential qualities of editorial leadership.”

Vogue is the standard-bearer of the high-fashion glossy magazines; it’s 2009 average circulation was 1,269,640. Wintour was named editor in chief in 1988. She had earlier been Vogue’s creative director as well as the top editor at British Vogue and House & Garden.

Previous ASME honorees include Martha Stewart, Tina Brown, Helen Gurley Brown and Hugh Hefner.

Designers embrace power of fashion’s blogging crowd

Designers are embracing a growing crowd of internet-savvy fashion followers taking catwalk glamour beyond the coveted front row, with many young creators welcoming a trend they say brings them closer to consumers.

After years of shunning the internet, a changing luxury market has forced even top fashion houses to welcome the world wide web and, more recently, a burgeoning blogging and micro-blogging, or “tweeting,” culture.

For young designers like 29-year-old Canadian Mark Fast, showcasing his collection of body-molding knitwear at London’s fashion week, the blogosphere offers a voice to new opinions and a platform for the startup brands themselves.

“It’s a great way to reach many more people,” Fast said backstage, as models and dressers swarmed ahead of his show.

“Everyone has an opinion — it’s nice to hear what these people are thinking, to give them a voice. Why not?”

Fast has become a darling of the controversy-hungry blogging crowd after choosing larger models to showcase his collection alongside the more traditional, long-limbed size zeros, a move he says that is more about diversity than ruffling feathers.

Mary Katrantzou, who showed her collection of structured dresses in dramatic, 18th-century inspired trompe-l’oeil prints alongside Fast, said bloggers offered her useful input, but most critically, put her in direct touch with consumers.

“It is a new way of getting in touch with people and finding out what they feel about your clothes,” she told Reuters.

“Before, it was the shop (buyer) that had access to the customer. Now you have direct access.”

Older designers like veteran Paul Costelloe echo the idea, arguing bloggers also bring them closer to a new generation of consumers: “It’s a different sort of following, sometimes younger people who don’t know about the baggage I’ve been carrying — they just look and see what I’m doing now.”

MOVING IN ON FRONT ROW

Not everyone has welcomed the voice the internet has given to people as diverse as teenage bloggers Tavi Gevinson and Bryan Boy and fashion stalwarts like Vogue’s Vogue.com site.

But bloggers and contributors to online fashion sites are now a common sight and, increasingly, are moving closer to the front row normally reserved for heavyweight editors and buyers.

Helping to boost the impact of instant fashion views, London Fashion Week’s organizers have streamed many of this year’s shows live online, with fashion house Burberry even going 3-D.

But the meeting of internet and cutting-edge fashion isn’t about to make the catwalk redundant.

“The expense, the fact that people have to travel across the world to see catwalk shows, that it would cheaper to look at pictures online, has meant people discuss whether there is any point,” Dolly Jones, editor of Vogue.com, said.

“But there is a starry nature — fashion is exciting and people want to celebrate it. The catwalk gives it that focus for celebration.”

For Scott Schuman, a former showroom owner and now the name behind the celebrated Sartorialist street fashion site, blogs and sites beaming catwalk shows across the world could actually increase the appeal and potentially make runway shows pay.

“I asked people in my blog, would you pay (to see a show)? A lot of them said yes,” he told Reuters on the sidelines of London’s fashion extravaganza.

“It won’t make (shows) redundant, it will make them entertainment. The Oscars used to be just a trade and industry thing — now it’s big entertainment.”

From:sina.com

Pierre Cardin still empire-building at 87

A Turkish model presents 2010-2011 winter creations by Pierre Cardin on the first day of Istanbul Fashion Week on February 3. Cardin He was the first of the designers for the rich-and-famous to launch a ready-to-wear collection, the first to move into men’s fashion — and the first to sell his brand-name.(AFP Photo)

Pierre Cardin likes to talk about selling his multi-billion fashion empire, but though aged almost 88, he seems to have too many irons in the fire to contemplate retiring any time soon.

Ushering three accountants out of his office — across the road from the French president’s — the indefatigable Cardin leaps out of his chair and waves a tiny shiny designer-style metal box.

“It’s a sewing kit, for travellers,” a slightly dishevelled Cardin says in an interview ahead of publication of a new book on his career.

“I think it will bring in lots of money. After all, everyone needs to sew on a button from time to time.”

The last active survivor of the great postwar Paris fashion houses, Cardin from his cluttered office runs one of the world’s most successful fashion empires — a conglomerate that even in this corporate age has remained under his single ownership and leadership for 60 years.

“I never had money to start with,” he proudly insists. “My company grew with the profits I made.”

Reviled on and off by many of his contemporaries for exploiting his name, allegedly demeaning high fashion, this son of poor Italian immigrant parents celebrates the 60th anniversary of his firm claiming to own licenses for 1,000-odd products sold under his name.

“I cover the entire world, except perhaps North Korea, and I could go there too if I chose,” he says in his inimitably immodest way.

Estimated at 310 million euros in personal wealth in 2009 and ranked 97th of top French fortunes by economic magazine Challenges, Cardin’s mixed-bag conglomerate includes Paris theatres, Maxim’s restaurants, food and drink products, a new golf course, and, of course, fashion and other accessories.

“My latest toy (the sewing kit) is an act of creation,” he goes on to say. “It’s my name that brings in the cash.”

One of the great visionary stylists of the 1960s, Cardin’s commercial strategy was equally revolutionary. He was the first of the designers for the rich-and-famous to launch a ready-to-wear collection, the first to move into men’s fashion — and the first to sell his brand-name.

“Clothes are important, everyone has to dress,” he muses. “It’s like plants, like trees, you change your cover every season.”

Cardin was also first to venture into China, India and Japan, respectively 30, 50 and 45 years ago.

“I was right to do all this,” he says. “I very rarely advertise. My creation does it all.”

Said to run the entire empire of 450 staff in Paris and 200,000 worldwide almost singlehandedly, and somewhat chaotically, Cardin has little time or favour for the current kings of couture.

“To know whether a designer’s left a mark on fashion you need to close your eyes and think what they represent,” he says. “Chanel left her little suit, Paco Rabanne’s about metal. Courreges left a mark as did Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet, Pierre Cardin.”

What about Dior’s current creations under John Galliano? “It’s all costume, theatrical costume,” he says. “The entire fashion scene nowadays is nothing but costumes.”

“Fashion is supposed to be wearable,” adds Cardin, whose sole Paris boutique continues to offer space-age-like designs. “Women should be able to live a normal life in their clothes.”

“Fashion and design are not the same. Fashion is what you can wear. Design can be unpleasant and unpopular but it’s creative. So design is where the real value lies.”

In July he plans one of his now rare catwalk shows, a sumptuous affair to mark the 60th anniversary of the brand.

In between time he also plans to launch a pouch for carrying golf balls, an idea connected to his new golf course near the Marquis de Sade’s castle he owns in southern France.

“Why not give the rich something to spend their money on? Without them the world would stop.

“I’m hanging in, I’m not senile.”

For Valentine’s, give the unexpected

Valentine’s Day-themed presents tend to be the same old crap year after year. Flowers? Done it. Chocolates? She’s on a diet. Jewelry? Not when everyone’s saving to buy an apartment! Lifestyle’s searched out some rather unusual V-Day gift options to tell your lover just how you feel.

For the ladies with expensive tastes

We’ve already poo-pooed the idea of giving chocolates, but we didn’t say these chocolates. Godiva has some lovely limited edition chocolates for Valentine’s.

Our picks: one soft, heart-shaped chocolate, wrapped in a golden box with a red silk bow. It’s 100 yuan for this precious, 40-gram nugget.

If one bite cannot possibly convey all your love, spring for a red silk heart-shaped box with a rose, containing chocolates with flavors from chestnut to caramel, as well as the heart choco mentioned above. For a box of 13 pieces, prepare to spend 595 yuan. A 36-piece set costs an astonishing 1,390 kuai.

Need a middle ground? Try Godiva’s teddy bear for 350 yuan.

Garishly romantic

Love your girl but can’t always be with her, due to work demands, over-vigilant parents or prudish morals? Give her a dream pillow (below) to remind her of you as she drifts off to sleep.

If she can sleep, that is. The new product, aimed squarely at 2010 V-Day newbies, is made of a soft material and stuffed with LED color-changing lights activated by a squeeze of the pillow. The result? It’s marketed as creating a dreamy effect, but we find it a bit bright for attempting to sleep. Fortunately, if you leave the thing alone for a half hour, the lights automatically go out.

To order a 188-yuan glow pillow, visit Only Love at www.onlylove.hk or taobao.com for a lower price.

A small reminder of your love for him every time he undoes his pants

Around here, a girl doesn’t give a belt to just any old guy. Belts worn every day are representative of a woman’s expectations of faithful love, trust and responsibility.

The clever crowd back at Only Love Company have devised a personalized belt with an engraved metal buckle. Your loving words are concealed inside the buckle, known only to him. Suggested quotes? “Although you are not with me right now, my love is haunting you all the time,” “Hon, I will be with you forever,” “You belong to me, nobody can take you away,” and “You have me on your road ahead.” Expect such sentiments to truly overwhelm your sweetheart. Hopefully, in a good way.

Chen Hao is one such lucky man who received a buckle from girlfriend Xia Chunli, after dating half a year. “About one month ago, I was very surprised to receive a package and fully delighted to find this precious gift from her. The engravings are poetic: ‘Holding hands with you, never apart, never betray,’ along with my given name, Hao, and the last character of her given name, Li, engraved together.”

These buckles are available from OnlyLove online, for approximately 200 yuan.

Li Baoqing buys newspapers from the library, packages them in a delicately designed wooden box and then sells them on Taobao.com to people who want a paper from the date they were born. He even assembles full kits with a birthday card and a CD with music from the decade of birth. But for Valentine’s Day, he does more business in fake, tailor-made newspapers.

For example, Li will customize a front page for couples to give one another, with the story of their romance the lead article.

Of course, Li has to change the names slightly to avoid lawsuits, but it’s hard to tell at a glance that “Huanqiu Shibao” (Global Times) has become “Huanqiu Ribao.” Search for “birthday newspaper” to find Li’s shop on Taobao. Prices range from 30 to 100 yuan.

Free, for now

You know what costs nothing and means everything? Proposing. Give it a go, what’s the worst that could happen?

A recent Nokia commercial distributed online shows a man asking pedestrians to use his phone to snap him in front of the words “Will,” “You,” “Mary” (sic) “Me” on signs around town, before messaging his girlfriend with the proposal.

Of course, you don’t have to. I’m sure she’ll respond just as well to a V-Day suggestion of, “Dinner tonight, restaurant: McDonalds?”

When the band Extreme sang “More than Words,” they were trying to express how sometimes, just saying, “I will love and cherish you forever,” is nowhere near enough. Exactly what were they suggesting one do, then?

We reckon they were advising folks to zip back to One Love and order up a crystal “Best Boyfriend” or “Best Girlfriend” trophy, costing 238 yuan. Cheapskates can opt for certificates that offer the same sentiment for about 50 yuan.

Guo Biwei, who has been in relationship for four years and plans to get married next year, told Lifestyle, “I was trying hard to give him a very surprising and unexpected gift this year. I was really excited to find this treasure on Taobao. I sent my boyfriend’s picture and the words I wanted the seller to print on the “Best Boyfriend” certificate. It was basically some rules of what a model husband should do. I was especially impressed with the packaging. The certificate is sealed in an old-fashioned yellow document envelope sealed with a red stamp saying ‘Top Secret.’”

According to Guo, her future husband got the hint after having a good laugh. “Through this unexpected gift, I achieved my purpose. Now I’m thinking of buying a ‘Best Mom and Dad’ certifi-cate for my parents this Spring Festival.”

Crazy in love

The funniest, or creepiest gift option, depending on the nature of your relationship, is the “Crazy Love” certificate, or chiqing zheng (left). The left side is emblazoned with your name, gender (just in case) and ID number. On the right, find the statement: “This is to certify that A has fallen so deeply in love with B, that A is so obsessed with B, that A cannot eat, drink or sleep. A is so crazy in love, he/she is deserving of this award. Please keep the certificate safe, and show it under necessary situations.” The certificate’s duration is “FOREVER,” and it’s stamped by the China Crazy Love Authentication Center. It’s unfathomable that you might have something else to add to all that, but should you, additional content can be added to this binding document. Find it on Taobao for 20 to 50 yuan.

America’s best and worst job markets

Education and government work have the nation’s capital on top, while sunbelt tourism meccas like Miami and Las Vegas suffer most.

Unemployment is edging lower, but jobs are still pretty scarce. How scarce? Depends on where you are.

Those living in areas dependent on construction, manufacturing or hospitality remain mostly out of luck. Those carried by education, health care or government work are breathing a bit easier.

Which metro areas are showing sign of thawing, where relatively fewer people are chasing the most openings? Juju.com, a national job search engine, compiles a monthly list of job openings put out by corporations, staffing services companies and other various sources in the country’s 50 largest metropolitan areas. The number of openings is divided into the number of unemployed people in each metro, according to Bureau of Labor Statistics figures, to determine the ratio of job seekers to job openings. Nationwide, Juju.com’s February numbers show an average of 6.8 people looking for each job posting that’s out there, a slight improvement from January.

To assess each metro area’s overall labor market health, Forbes combined the juju.com ratios with the current unemployment rate for each metro as measured by the BLS.

The healthiest job market: Washington, D.C., where there are fewer than two job seekers per opening, and where unemployment sits at 6.2%, a full 3.5 points below the national average.

In addition to the rudder provided by the constant supply of government jobs, D.C. “is also home to a lot of education and health care jobs, which have been pretty steady,” says Brendan Cruickshank, a Juju.com vice president. Right behind are Midwestern metros Salt Lake City, Utah (known to be tax friendly) and Oklahoma City, Okla. (a healthy energy industry), both of which count just over three job seekers per opening.

“The Salt Lake City government has gone out of its way to be business friendly, providing incentives for companies to relocate there,” says Cruickshank.

One trend that stands out among the strongest job markets: Seven of the 10 are capital cities (six state capitals in addition to the nation’s capital). During tough times, government work brings stability. A notable exception is California, where a drowning state budget has led to layoffs and furloughs of state workers. The state’s capital, Sacramento, ranks fourth from the bottom among the nation’s 50 largest metros, with 12.3% unemployment and more than 10 idle workers for every job posting. Another struggling capital: Providence, R.I., a traditionally industrial area that’s been hit by the manufacturing downturn.

Sunbelt cities that rely on tourism and hospitality also continue to struggle. Los Angeles, Miami, and Las Vegas all have ten or more unemployed people for every listed job opening, with Orlando close behind. An overbuilt real estate market hammered Miami and Las Vegas, both of which are dealing with unemployment above 13%. In hard-hit Tampa, where the unemployment rate is 12.4% and 7.1 job seekers vie for every want ad, at least one local industry is growing according to The St. Petersburg Times: psychics. People are looking for assurance that things will get better.

And of course there’s Detroit, the decaying U.S. car capital that’s suffering not just from the fall of the auto industry, but from the long economic trend away from manufacturing. The Detroit region has 18 unemployed people for every job opening, six more than any other major city.

(Tom Van Riper, Forbes.com)

What to reveal during your job search

If you’re a single parent with five kids, or caring for a gravely ill relative, or dealing with a serious medical condition–what do you say and when?

You’re interviewing for a job and you know you may need time away from the office to care for your children, or for your terminally ill mother, or for your own serious medical condition. What and when do you tell your potential boss? Vicki Brackett, who runs Make It Happen for Women, a firm in Denver that professes to do “job search makeovers,” takes a hard-line stance. “You never tell an employer,” she says emphatically. “Never. Not until you’ve been there a while.”

Especially in this job market, she adds. The competition for jobs is so fierce that employers will always go for the candidate they believe can work the longest and hardest. “What employer wants to hire someone who’s not going to be there?” she asks.

Many job seekers, especially women, want to find a job that fits their life, rather than the other way around, Brackett says: “What women want most is a culture that works for them. They make the mistake of thinking that other women are going to understand, or that employers will care. It could be that the woman who’s interviewing you barely got to work in the morning because of problems at home. She doesn’t want to hire someone who has problems at home too.”

Brackett advises that as a job candidate you focus on proving your value to an employer, not only throughout the job search but even in the first months on the job. Some companies don’t firm up their hires until an initial trial period of 90 days has come to a close. Only then should the employee consider asking for flextime. Frame the request by describing how it will benefit the company. “You should say, ‘It’s something that can help me be more effective,’” Brackett advises. “Every discussion should be about the company.”

Stay away from chatter about your personal life, including seemingly harmless topics, she also advises. Even if you just returned from a fabulous two-week honeymoon in Italy, keep that to yourself. “The boss may think, here’s someone who takes long, expensive vacations. She’s going to want a lot of time off.”

Though it may seem a smart move to form a personal bond with an interviewer, avoid the temptation, Brackett says. A harried employer can view even do-gooding work outside the office as a liability these days, she adds. “If you say you’ve been out banging nails for Habitat for Humanity, the employer might think, she’s going to want time off to do that.” Only bring up non-work subjects if you’ve done your homework and you know, for instance, that the company encourages employees to do volunteer jobs.

Keep in mind that employers are forbidden by law to ask most personal questions. Kathleen McKenna, a partner in the labor practice at the law firm Proskauer Rose, says that both federal and local statutes forbid interviewers from asking about marital or family status, or about medical conditions. The only exception comes when a medical condition may directly affect the candidate’s ability to do the job. “If someone comes in in a wheelchair and you’re hiring for a pole-vaulting position, then you can ask, ‘Exactly how do you see this working for you?’” McKenna says.

Not all career coaches agree with Brackett’s zero-disclosure policy. Win Sheffield, a coach in New York City, says, “The way I look at the job interview process, it’s about three things: Can you do the job, is it a job you want, and will you fit at the company.” If you realize during the search process that a special medical condition or family circumstance will make for a bad fit, then speak up, Sheffield says, or at least be honest with yourself. If you don’t, you may wind up feeling you betrayed yourself–or your employer may feel you betrayed her.

Anita Attridge, a New Jersey coach, says she has counseled candidates with special circumstances about grappling with whether they may in fact need a part-time, rather than full-time, position. Nowadays full-time really means full-time, she points out. “The expectation is that you come in and you’re immediately ready to go,” she says. “Everyone has really tightened down their head counts. They don’t have the option to accommodate people’s special needs.”

(Susan Adams, Forbes.com)

Limited e-mail service opens in Xinjiang,China

Internet users in the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region could use limited e-mail service provided by sina.com.cn from 8 pm on Monday.

Users can receive and send e-mails but cannot send or receive attachments. New users can also register at the website.

The service was switched off after the deadly July 5 riot in Urumqi, which left 197 dead and more than 1,700 injured.

The regional government decided to gradually lift the ban on Internet service in late December last year because of the improving social situation in the region.

Xinjiang residents were first allowed partial access to two official websites: xinhuanet.com and people.com.cn on Dec 28, then two commercial websites: sina.com.cn and sohu.com. on Jan 10. They were allowed partial access to another 27 websites last Saturday.

Google’s China Problem (and China’s Google Problem)

For many young people in China, Kai-Fu Lee is a celebrity. Not quite on the level of a movie star like Edison Chen

or the singers in the boy band F4, but for a 44-year-old computer scientist who invariably appears in a somber dark

suit, he can really draw a crowd. When Lee, the new head of operations for Google in China, gave a lecture at one

Chinese university about how young Chinese should compete with the rest of the world, scalpers sold tickets for $60

apiece. At another, an audience of 8,000 showed up; students sprawled out on the ground, fixed on every word.

It is not hard to see why Lee has become a cult figure for China’s high-tech youth. He grew up in Taiwan, went to

Columbia and Carnegie-Mellon and is fluent in both English and Mandarin. Before joining Google last year, he worked

for Apple in California and then for Microsoft in China; he set up Microsoft Research Asia, the company’s research-

and-development lab in Beijing. In person, Lee exudes the cheery optimism of a life coach; last year, he published

“Be Your Personal Best,” a fast-selling self-help book that urged Chinese students to adopt the risk-taking spirit

of American capitalism. When he started the Microsoft lab seven years ago, he hired dozens of China’s top graduates;

he will now be doing the same thing for Google. “The students of China are remarkable,” he told me when I met him in

Beijing in February. “There is a huge desire to learn.”

Lee can sound almost evangelical when he talks about the liberating power of technology. The Internet, he says, will

level the playing field for China’s enormous rural underclass; once the country’s small villages are connected, he

says, students thousands of miles from Shanghai or Beijing will be able to access online course materials from

M.I.T. or Harvard and fully educate themselves. Lee has been with Google since only last summer, but he wears the

company’s earnest, utopian ethos on his sleeve: when he was hired away from Microsoft, he published a gushingly

emotional open letter on his personal Web site, praising Google’s mission to bring information to the masses. He

concluded with an exuberant equation that translates as “youth + freedom + equality + bottom-up innovation + user

focus + don’t be evil = The Miracle of Google.”

When I visited with Lee, that miracle was being conducted out of a collection of bland offices in downtown Beijing

that looked as if they had been hastily rented and occupied. The small rooms were full of eager young Chinese men in

hip sweatshirts clustered around enormous flat-panel monitors, debugging code for new Google projects. “The ideals

that we uphold here are really just so important and noble,” Lee told me. “How to build stuff that users like, and

figure out how to make money later. And ‘Don’t Do Evil’ ” — he was referring to Google’s bold motto, “Don’t Be

Evil” — “all of those things. I think I’ve always been an idealist in my heart.”

Yet Google’s conduct in China has in recent months seemed considerably less than idealistic. In January, a few

months after Lee opened the Beijing office, the company announced it would be introducing a new version of its

search engine for the Chinese market. To obey China’s censorship laws, Google’s representatives explained, the

company had agreed to purge its search results of any Web sites disapproved of by the Chinese government, including

Web sites promoting Falun Gong, a government-banned spiritual movement; sites promoting free speech in China; or any

mention of the 1989 Tiananmen Square massacre. If you search for “Tibet” or “Falun Gong” most anywhere in the world

on google.com, you’ll find thousands of blog entries, news items and chat rooms on Chinese repression. Do the same

search inside China on google.cn, and most, if not all, of these links will be gone. Google will have erased them

completely.

Google’s decision did not go over well in the United States. In February, company executives were called into

Congressional hearings and compared to Nazi collaborators. The company’s stock fell, and protesters waved placards

outside the company’s headquarters in Mountain View, Calif. Google wasn’t the only American high-tech company to run

aground in China in recent months, nor was it the worst offender. But Google’s executives were supposed to be cut

from a different cloth. When the company went public two years ago, its telegenic young founders, Sergey Brin and

Larry Page, wrote in the company’s official filing for the Securities and Exchange Commission that Google is “a

company that is trustworthy and interested in the public good.” How could Google square that with making nice with a

repressive Chinese regime and the Communist Party behind it?

It was difficult for me to know exactly how Lee felt about the company’s arrangement with China’s authoritarian

leadership. As a condition of our meeting, Google had demanded that I not raise the issue of government relations;

only the executives in Google’s California head office were allowed to discuss those matters. But as Lee and I

talked about how the Internet was transforming China, he offered one opinion that seemed telling: the Chinese

students he meets and employs, Lee said, do not hunger for democracy. “People are actually quite free to talk about

the subject,” he added, meaning democracy and human rights in China. “I don’t think they care that much. I think

people would say: ‘Hey, U.S. democracy, that’s a good form of government. Chinese government, good and stable,

that’s a good form of government. Whatever, as long as I get to go to my favorite Web site, see my friends, live

happily.’ ” Certainly, he said, the idea of personal expression, of speaking out publicly, had become vastly more

popular among young Chinese as the Internet had grown and as blogging and online chat had become widespread. “But I

don’t think of this as a political statement at all,” Lee said. “I think it’s more people finding that they can

express themselves and be heard, and they love to keep doing that.”

It sounded to me like company spin — a curiously deflated notion of free speech. But spend some time among China’s

nascent class of Internet users, as I have these past months, and you begin to hear such talk somewhat differently.

Youth + freedom + equality + don’t be evil is an equation with few constants and many possible solutions. What is

freedom, just now, to the Chinese? Are there gradations of censorship, better and worse ways to limit information?

In America, that seems like an intolerable question — the end of the conversation. But in China, as Google has

discovered, it is just the beginning.
Google was not, in fact, a pioneer in China. Yahoo was the first major American Internet company to enter the

market, introducing a Chinese-language version of its site and opening up an office in Beijing in 1999. Yahoo

executives quickly learned how difficult China was to penetrate — and how baffling the country’s cultural barriers

can be for Americans. Chinese businesspeople, for example, rarely rely on e-mail, because they find the idea of

leaving messages to be socially awkward. They prefer live exchanges, which means they gravitate to mobile phones and

short text messages instead. (They avoid voicemail for the same reason; during the weeks I traveled in China,

whenever I called a Chinese executive whose phone was turned off, I would get a recording saying that the person was

simply “unavailable,” and the phone would not accept messages.) The most popular feature of the Internet for Chinese

users — much more so than in the United States — is the online discussion board, where long, rollicking arguments

and flame wars spill on for thousands of comments. Baidu, a Chinese search engine that was introduced in 2001 as an

early competitor to Yahoo, capitalized on the national fervor for chat and invented a tool that allows people to

create instant discussion groups based on popular search queries. When users now search on baidu.com for the name of

the Chinese N.B.A. star Yao Ming, for example, they are shown not only links to news reports on his games; they are

also able to join a chat room with thousands of others and argue about him. Baidu’s chat rooms receive as many as

five million posts a day.

As Yahoo found, these cultural nuances made the sites run by American companies feel simply foreign to Chinese users

— and drove them instead to local portals designed by Chinese entrepreneurs. These sites, including Sina.com and

Sohu.com, had less useful search engines, but they were full of links to chat rooms and government-approved Chinese

-language news sites. Nationalist feelings might have played a role, too, in the success Chinese-run sites enjoyed

at Yahoo’s expense. “There’s now a very strong sense of pride in supporting the local guy,” I was told by Andrew

Lih, a Chinese-American professor of media studies at the University of Hong Kong.

Yahoo also was slow to tap into another powerful force in Chinese life: rampant piracy. In most parts of the West,

after the Napster wars, movie and music piracy is increasingly understood as an illicit activity; it thrives,

certainly, but there is now a stigma against taking too much intellectual content without paying for it. (Hence the

success of iTunes.) In China, downloading illegal copies of music, movies and software is as normal and accepted as

checking the weather online. Baidu’s executives discovered early on that many young users were using the Internet to

hunt for pirated MP3’s, so the company developed an easy-to-use interface specifically for this purpose. When I sat

in an Internet cafe in Beijing one afternoon, a teenager with mutton-chop sideburns a few chairs over from me sipped

a Coke and watched a samurai movie he’d downloaded free, while his friends used Baidu to find and pull down pirated

tracks from the 50 Cent album “Get Rich or Die Tryin’.” Almost one-fifth of Baidu’s traffic comes from searching for

unlicensed MP3’s that would be illegal in the United States. Robin Li, Baidu’s 37-year-old founder and C.E.O., is

unrepentant. “Right now I think that the record companies may not be happy about the service we are offering,” he

told me recently, “but I think digital music as a trend is unstoppable.”

At first, Google took a different approach to the Chinese market than Yahoo did. In early 2000, Google’s engineers

quietly set about creating a version of their search engine that could understand character-based Asian languages

like Chinese, Japanese and Korean. By the end of the year, they had put up a clunky but serviceable Chinese-language

version of Google’s home page. If you were in China and surfed over to google.com in 2001, Google’s servers would

automatically detect that you were inside the country and send you to the Chinese-language search interface, much in

the same way google.com serves up a French-language interface to users in France.

While Baidu appealed to young MP3 hunters, Google became popular with a different set: white-collar urban

professionals in the major Chinese cities, aspirational types who follow Western styles and sprinkle English words

into conversation, a class that prides itself on being cosmopolitan rather than nationalistic. By pulling in that

audience, Google by the end of 2002 achieved a level of success that had eluded Yahoo: it amassed an estimated 25

percent of all search traffic in China — and it did so working entirely from California, far outside the Chinese

government’s sphere of influence.

The Great Firewall

Then on Sept. 3, 2002, Google vanished. Chinese workers arrived at their desks to find that Google’s site was down,

with just an error page in its place. The Chinese government had begun blocking it. China has two main methods for

censoring the Web. For companies inside its borders, the government uses a broad array of penalties and threats to

keep content clean. For Web sites that originate anywhere else in the world, the government has another impressively

effective mechanism of control: what techies call the Great Firewall of China.

When you use the Internet, it often feels placeless and virtual, but it’s not. It runs on real wires that cut

through real geographical boundaries. There are three main fiber-optic pipelines in China, giant underground cables

that provide Internet access for the public and connect China to the rest of the Internet outside its borders. The

Chinese government requires the private-sector companies that run these fiber-optic networks to specially configure

“router” switches at the edge of the network, where signals cross into foreign countries. These routers — some of

which are made by Cisco Systems, an American firm — serve as China’s new censors.
 READ MORE

A New Start

I’ve been wanting to chage it for a long time。And finally I made the decision–delete all the datas of this website.

NOW ,it’s  a new start