Posts Tagged ‘ News

Anna Wintour heading to magazine hall of fame

FILE – In this Friday, Feb. 12, 2010 picture shows Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour before the start of the Rag & Bone fall 2010 collection during Fashion Week in New York. Already considered one of the most powerful people in fashion, Wintour is now headed to the Magazine Editors’ Hall of Fame. The American Society of Magazine Editors announced Monday, Feb. 22, 2010 that she would be honored at its annual gala in April.(AP Photo)

Already considered one of the most powerful people in fashion, Vogue’s Anna Wintour is headed to the Magazine Editors’ Hall of Fame.

The American Society of Magazine Editors announced Monday that Wintour would be honored at its annual gala in April.

“Throughout her career, Anna Wintour has exemplified the highest standards of taste, in both journalism and fashion,” said Sid Holt, ASME’s chief executive, in a statement. “She has defined style for a generation of magazine readers and come to epitomize the essential qualities of editorial leadership.”

Vogue is the standard-bearer of the high-fashion glossy magazines; it’s 2009 average circulation was 1,269,640. Wintour was named editor in chief in 1988. She had earlier been Vogue’s creative director as well as the top editor at British Vogue and House & Garden.

Previous ASME honorees include Martha Stewart, Tina Brown, Helen Gurley Brown and Hugh Hefner.

Pierre Cardin still empire-building at 87

A Turkish model presents 2010-2011 winter creations by Pierre Cardin on the first day of Istanbul Fashion Week on February 3. Cardin He was the first of the designers for the rich-and-famous to launch a ready-to-wear collection, the first to move into men’s fashion — and the first to sell his brand-name.(AFP Photo)

Pierre Cardin likes to talk about selling his multi-billion fashion empire, but though aged almost 88, he seems to have too many irons in the fire to contemplate retiring any time soon.

Ushering three accountants out of his office — across the road from the French president’s — the indefatigable Cardin leaps out of his chair and waves a tiny shiny designer-style metal box.

“It’s a sewing kit, for travellers,” a slightly dishevelled Cardin says in an interview ahead of publication of a new book on his career.

“I think it will bring in lots of money. After all, everyone needs to sew on a button from time to time.”

The last active survivor of the great postwar Paris fashion houses, Cardin from his cluttered office runs one of the world’s most successful fashion empires — a conglomerate that even in this corporate age has remained under his single ownership and leadership for 60 years.

“I never had money to start with,” he proudly insists. “My company grew with the profits I made.”

Reviled on and off by many of his contemporaries for exploiting his name, allegedly demeaning high fashion, this son of poor Italian immigrant parents celebrates the 60th anniversary of his firm claiming to own licenses for 1,000-odd products sold under his name.

“I cover the entire world, except perhaps North Korea, and I could go there too if I chose,” he says in his inimitably immodest way.

Estimated at 310 million euros in personal wealth in 2009 and ranked 97th of top French fortunes by economic magazine Challenges, Cardin’s mixed-bag conglomerate includes Paris theatres, Maxim’s restaurants, food and drink products, a new golf course, and, of course, fashion and other accessories.

“My latest toy (the sewing kit) is an act of creation,” he goes on to say. “It’s my name that brings in the cash.”

One of the great visionary stylists of the 1960s, Cardin’s commercial strategy was equally revolutionary. He was the first of the designers for the rich-and-famous to launch a ready-to-wear collection, the first to move into men’s fashion — and the first to sell his brand-name.

“Clothes are important, everyone has to dress,” he muses. “It’s like plants, like trees, you change your cover every season.”

Cardin was also first to venture into China, India and Japan, respectively 30, 50 and 45 years ago.

“I was right to do all this,” he says. “I very rarely advertise. My creation does it all.”

Said to run the entire empire of 450 staff in Paris and 200,000 worldwide almost singlehandedly, and somewhat chaotically, Cardin has little time or favour for the current kings of couture.

“To know whether a designer’s left a mark on fashion you need to close your eyes and think what they represent,” he says. “Chanel left her little suit, Paco Rabanne’s about metal. Courreges left a mark as did Elsa Schiaparelli, Madeleine Vionnet, Pierre Cardin.”

What about Dior’s current creations under John Galliano? “It’s all costume, theatrical costume,” he says. “The entire fashion scene nowadays is nothing but costumes.”

“Fashion is supposed to be wearable,” adds Cardin, whose sole Paris boutique continues to offer space-age-like designs. “Women should be able to live a normal life in their clothes.”

“Fashion and design are not the same. Fashion is what you can wear. Design can be unpleasant and unpopular but it’s creative. So design is where the real value lies.”

In July he plans one of his now rare catwalk shows, a sumptuous affair to mark the 60th anniversary of the brand.

In between time he also plans to launch a pouch for carrying golf balls, an idea connected to his new golf course near the Marquis de Sade’s castle he owns in southern France.

“Why not give the rich something to spend their money on? Without them the world would stop.

“I’m hanging in, I’m not senile.”

Westwood condemns consumerism after London show

Models wears an outfit by designer Vivienne Westwood Red Label for her Autumn/Winter 2010 collection at London Fashion Week in London, Sunday, Feb. 21, 2010.(AP)

LONDON – One-of-a-kind designer Vivienne Westwood Sunday night presented a gorgeous collection of autumn and winter outfits at London Fashion Week, then went backstage and told reporters she hopes people stop buying her clothes.

“Stop all this consumerism,” said Westwood, the former high priestess of punk who has increasingly used her catwalk shows to spotlight her concern about climate change.

“I just tell people, stop buying clothes. Why not protect this gift of life while we have it? I don’t take the attitude that destruction is inevitable. Some of us would like to stop that and help people survive,” she said.

Her show capped a gala day at London Fashion Week, with shows by Matthew Williamson, Jasper Conran and other top designers.

VIVIAN WESTWOOD

Long one of Britain’s most celebrated designers, Westwood said she wants to try other challenges, including a television series on art and science after she shows her Gold Label collection in Paris next month.

She was in an enviable position: Her new collection had brought the house down, supermodel Kate Moss — in a black top, tight jeans and black leather cap — was waiting to congratulate her, and the audience of adoring fans included singer Janet Jackson and model Naomi Campbell.

The eclectic Red Label collection, which Westwood called romantic, began with models wearing tee shirts designed to call attention to the crisis in Haiti, in hopes of raising money for Campbell’s effort to help mothers and babies displaced by the earthquake there.

Then it moved quickly into Westwood’s special realm, a mixture of odd pairings that combined some traditional elements with looks that were new and different. One outfit mixed brightly colored plaid trousers with a polka dot blouse in orange and red — somehow, it worked.

There were mustard-colored tops and tuxedo-style jackets with pink details, Alice in Wonderland hats, and one model came out wearing an apron, sharpening a knife somewhat menacingly as she walked. Some of the most effective pieces were the simpler ones, including an elegant black cocktail dress that closed the show.

“The great thing about Vivienne is that you can wear her clothes if you’re 16 or 60,” said Jo Wood, a supermodel in an earlier era who recently returned to the catwalk to model for Westwood. “She’s fantastic.”

MATTHEW WILLIAMSON

Designer Matthew Williamson showed an exuberant display of slinky evening wear in vibrant colors.

With a variety of prints, fur, slim-cut leather pants and even low-rise harem pants, Williamson wowed a star-studded audience with his Autumn/Winter 2010 collection.

“Absolutely fantastic,” said ’60s supermodel Twiggy, whose stellar career has been marked by longevity. “I want about ten things. I want the harem pants in every color, they were amazing, and also those evening dresses, I probably couldn’t wear them, but I think we’ll be seeing a lot of those on the red carpet.”

Twiggy said Williamson’s clothes were extremely wearable.

“I love Matthew to death, I think he’s a genius,” she said. “They’re for all age groups. The young look great in them. I’m certainly not young, and I love wearing them.”

Actress Sienna Miller was also proud to pronounce herself a “FOM” — Friend of Matthew — and praised his outfits from her front row perch. So did model Yasmin Le Bon.

“He’s taken the brand to a whole new level,” said Miller, who is showing her Twenty8Twelve collection, designed with her sister Savannah Miller, later Sunday night.

The collection showed Williamson’s easy approach, with gray and black checked wool overcoats set off by fur sleeves or collars in the same colors. Underneath the coats, models wore sexy off-the-shoulder dresses or dresses cut extremely low in the back.

JASPER CONRAN

Candy-colored silk crepe dresses for winter? Why not, asked designer Jasper Conran.

Conran kicked off his show with ballooning capes and dresses in thick wool and flannel worn over bodysuits.

His dramatic spherical coats and bodices were inspired by British sculptors Henry Moore and Barbara Hepworth, while details like space-age mirrored sequins and geometric cutouts were a modern take on the playful shapes and styles of the 60s.

Dark sheer tulle dresses were adorned with PVC panels, geometric sequins and huge polished silver cuffs.

Conran’s black and grays contrasted with imposing cardinal red, a bold orange and peacock blue.

Even with softer styles, the designer focused on big, voluptuous silhouettes — like a nude textured organza dress with a billowing back resembling insect wings. “Peep show” A-line shift dresses had rectangular sheer panels cut out whimsically at the waist, thigh and arch of the back.

The show closed with a splash of color and light, fluid fabrics that contrasted with the severity of the earlier pieces. Summery silk crepe dresses appeared in eye-popping fuchsia, canary yellow and tangerine, just right to lift the winter mood.

McQueen’s death hurts London fashion scene

Flowers are seen under a logo of British fashion designer Alexander McQueen and a note informing customers of his death at his shop in central London, Thursday, Feb. 11. (AP Photo)

Yes, there are other big names: Vivienne Westwood, Stella McCartney and Paul Smith come to mind. But the sudden death of Alexander McQueen leaves a gaping hole at the center of London’s fashion universe.

McQueen was Britain’s shooting star, a man who helped make London cool again in the 1990s. And his personal history helped inspire others.

The son of a London cabbie, the youngest of six siblings, McQueen was a product of the streets, not a posh dilettante with a wealthy family to back his fashion whims.

Now he is gone, due to an apparent suicide that has not been confirmed by his family or the police. And fashion insiders don’t see any heir apparent to the enfant terrible who turned catwalk shows into memorable works of performance art.

“I don’t see anyone on his level,” said Kate Brindley, spokeswoman for the Liberty store, where sales of McQueen’s signature scarves have increased 14 fold in the last day. “His vision was completely unique, that’s why he was so successful commercially and so well respected in the industry.”

She said McQueen forged a path for other emerging designers, urging them by example to remain true to their visions. His impact was magnified, she said, by the fact that he kept his businesses based in London even though he showed his work primarily in Paris.

“He’s still very much a British designer, in terms of his rebellious feeling,” she said. “He created this tremendous international fashion brand, but he never lost sight of what made him who he was.”

The McQueen store in central London remained closed Friday, with lilies and roses in the window in memory of the designer. Some devoted mourners also placed flowers and candles outside the shop on London’s upscale Bond Street.

The fashion house’s offices worldwide are now asking all journalists who were given sample garments in the past to ship them back to the company’s headquarters because of concerns that they would be sold for high prices on Web sites such as eBay, which has already seen a spike in the number of listings of Alexander McQueen items, from 63 on Monday to a little over 900 on Friday.

The company said hundreds of the items — including clothing, shoes and other accessories from current and past collections — have been recalled to keep the McQueen legacy secure.

Meanwhile, plans continued for London Fashion Week, set to begin next Friday, but the mood is expected to be somber as many offer tributes to McQueen, whose early London shows helped put the event week on the international fashion calendar.

“His death will cast a real pall over London Fashion Week,” said Hadley Freeman, fashion columnist for the Guardian newspaper. “He was a real inspiration to young fashion students. There is not a single student in the last 10 years who didn’t cite him.”

She said McQueen’s working-class background and his liberal use of street and punk influences had a democratizing effect on British fashion.

“He hadn’t shown in London for a while now, but he was so intrinsically associated with British fashion, he was the reason Britain got kickstarted, got cool, in the ’90s,” she said.

British fashion designer McQueen found dead at 40

FILE – In this Feb. 29, 2008 file photo, British fashion designer Alexander McQueen acknowledges applause at the end of his fall winter 2008-2009 ready-to-wear collection presented in Paris. McQueen was found dead at his London home on Thursday, Feb. 11, 2010, his spokeswoman said. He was 40 years old.(AP Photo)

The body of British fashion designer Alexander McQueen is carried into a private ambulance from his apartment in London. The flamboyant McQueen was found dead at his London home on Thursday, after apparently committing suicide, police and reports said.(AFP Photo)

A woman pauses to read a plaque in the window of designer Alexander McQueen’s store in New York, Thursday, Feb. 11, 2010. McQueen was found dead in his London home Thursday. He was 40 years old.(AP Photo)

FILE – In this Oct. 5, 2007 file photo, a model presents a creation by British fashion designer Alexander McQueen for his Spring-Summer 2008 Ready-to-Wear collection, in Paris. McQueen was found dead at his London home on Thursday, Feb. 11, 2010, his spokeswoman said. He was 40 years old.(AP Photo)

FILE – In this Oct. 6, 2009 file photo, a model presents a creation by British fashion designer Alexander McQueen for his Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2010 fashion collection, presented in Paris. McQueen was found dead at his London home on Thursday, Feb. 11, 2010, his spokeswoman said. He was 40 years old

His runway shows were often like performance pieces: One featured models with headwear made of trash. Another showed off 10-inch heels shaped like lobster claws.

At the pinnacle of his success, British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was found dead in his home Thursday, days after posting anguished online remarks about the death of his mother. He was 40.

The circumstances pointed to a possible suicide, but there was no confirmation from police or McQueen’s publicists. Authorities said the death was not suspicious, apparently ruling out foul play. They did not indicate how McQueen was discovered.

The Sun tabloid cited an anonymous source on its Web site who said workers found McQueen hanging in his apartment. The newspaper gave no further details. His family issued a statement asking for privacy.

McQueen is credited with helping revive the once-moribund British fashion industry. His edgy pieces were coveted and treasured by stylish women across the globe and seen on numerous red carpets.

Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour called McQueen “one of the greatest talents of his generation.”

“He brought a uniquely British sense of daring and aesthetic fearlessness to the global stage of fashion. In such a short career, Alexander McQueen’s influence was astonishing — from street style, to music culture and the world’s museums,” she said in a statement. “His passing marks an insurmountable loss.”

McQueen did not design for the celebrities, but they flocked to him for the sheer audacity of his creations, which were instantly recognizable for being dramatic, exquisitely tailored and oh-so sexy.

A stunning dress for Sandra Bullock? A special order for Madonna? Something special for Kate Moss or Naomi Campbell? All these feats seemed easy for the quiet, slim, bearded Englishman who shunned publicity and laughed off the limelight.

Lady Gaga recently made waves when she wore McQueen’s spring 2010 lobster-claw shoes in her “Bad Romance” music video.

McQueen’s mother died Feb. 2. Some fashion experts speculated that his mood may have also been clouded by pressure to top himself again next month at his catwalk show in Paris.

News of his death broke at the start of New York Fashion Week and sent shock waves through the Bryant Park tents. A presentation of McQueen’s secondary label, McQ, had been scheduled for later Thursday, but it was quickly canceled.

After word of his death spread, one mourner left pink flowers at the doors of the designer’s London headquarters. Mourners also gathered outside his New York store.

“He was a great, great talent who had lost someone important in his life,” said Xavier Keane, who placed the flowers. “I know how he feels because I lost my mother last year.”

McQueen sounded anguished and frustrated in recent postings on his Twitter page. The remarks also sounded slightly confused.

“i’m letting my followers know the my mother passed away yesterday if it she had not me nor would you RIP mumx,” he wrote.

Shortly afterward, he added: “But life must go on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!”

On Sunday, he used an obscenity to describe his “awful week” and said he had to “some how pull myself together and finish.”

Four days later, he was dead.

“If you are a genius, the pressure to be a genius is always immense,” said Imogen Edwards-Jones, author of the “Fashion Babylon,” a novel on the untidy underside of the industry.

McQueen helped spark a renaissance in London fashion, helping to revive it after the long-dormant period that followed the punk explosion in the 1970s.

He was also responsible for one of history’s most famous “wardrobe malfunctions.” He designed Janet Jackson’s Super Bowl outfit, which fell open while she was singing, revealing one of her breasts.

In the usually glad-handing fashion world, McQueen was known as a private man who shunned the limelight. He turned down most interview requests and did not cultivate a cult of personality or try do develop an air of mystery about his work.

McQueen, a trim, handsome man with startling gray-blue eyes, had an easy smile, but did not linger in the camera’s glare.

“In a world where every man and his dog is a designer, Alexander McQueen was the real deal,” said celebrated hat maker Philip Treacy. “His talent was supersonic.”

McQueen made his name first in London, then wooed audiences in Paris, New York and Milan to take his place in the upper echelons of the designing world. He was named British Fashion Designer of the Year four times, and was recognized by Queen Elizabeth II in 2003, when she made him a Commander of the British Empire for his fashion leadership.

“McQueen influenced a whole generation of designers. His brilliant imagination knew no bounds as he conjured up collection after collection of extraordinary designs,” said Alexandra Shulman, the editor of British Vogue.

Hal Rubenstein, a fashion director for InStyle magazine said McQueen started out tough and angry — in his work and attitude — but softened over time as he felt more appreciated by the industry.

McQueen, he said, was a master of integration of technology into fashion.

“He changed the way so many of us see shows.”

McQueen was known for pushing the envelope. At his spring-summer 2010 collection, he featured sculptural cocktail dresses in psychedelic snakeskin prints, with the hoof-like platform booties that were worn by Lady Gaga. The show opened with huge screens projecting close-up images of a woman writhing among a den of snakes.

The death left the future of the McQueen label in doubt.

After a founder’s death, other major labels have turned to lesser-known in-house talent, as happened with Valentino; or brought in outside designers, as happened at Emanuel Ungaro; or even recruited family, as with Versace.

McQueen was the youngest of six children born to a taxi driver and a teacher. He received his early fashion training at the Central St. Martin’s College of Art and Design, long recognized for its fashion-forward approach and encouragement of Britain’s talented young designers.

He learned the finer points of traditional men’s tailoring at two famous, conservative Savile Row houses: Anderson and Sheppard, and Gieves and Hawkes.

After his Savile Row stint, McQueen started to develop his trademark, more theatrical designs, working with several other brands before first starting his own label in 1992.

He quickly earned a reputation for innovation. The company he founded was purchased by the Gucci Group, and he retained creative control of his own brand. There were plans for stores in Paris, Milan and London, as well as Manhattan and San Francisco.

His runway shows were always a highlight during the Paris ready-to-wear fashion week.

One of his previous collections included a show built around the concept of recycling, with models donning extravagant headwear made out of trash. His last collection, shown in October in Paris, featured elaborate and highly structured cocktail dresses. Critics raved.

(Agencies)